rice pot thai: east rock underdog
A TALE OF KINDNESS, CARE, AND CURRY
Images by Henry Hodder
Highway 91 passes over State Street in two places, roughly delineating the southeastern edge of New Haven’s East Rock neighborhood. Two Thai restaurants – Rice Pot Thai and September in Bangkok – bookend these overpasses, locked in perpetual standoff. Here’s the thing: Rice Pot has less square footage, a smaller budget, and, criminally, less cultural relevance than September. It also has, in the oft-repeated opinion of individuals for whom this article is not intended, comparable prices and worse food. But it also has this cozy feeling. A kind staff. Better prices for certain dishes. And most importantly, Rice Pot possesses that ineffable underdog quality that makes a person want to root for them. It’s become something of a sanctuary for me over the last two years.
My story began in September 2022, when I received a debilitating concussion at the hands of my apartment's washing machine. The door swung open on its own and I stood up too fast. It was embarrassing telling people how it happened. New to the area, hungry, and too concussed to walk more than 100 yards from my house, Rice Pot was the closest restaurant on Google Maps. Garbed in sweatpants, sunglasses, and the helmet-hat my concerned mother insisted on (it’s slightly too big to be a normal baseball cap and people look at me funny when I’m wearing it, Google ‘Uncanny Valley’), I trekked through harsh winds and cacophonous traffic along Nash, down Lawrence, and past Women’s Park. Arriving at 1027 State Street, I found myself bathed in a warmth I never knew I longed for. As intoxicating aromas of classic Thai cuisine began to tickle my nostrils, I was greeted with welcoming smiles and refreshing breath mints from a bowl by the entrance. Inside, the walls were sparsely adorned and painted a gentle gray-blue that stood in stark contrast to the bright orange booths where a dozen or so customers were enjoying their food. The aesthetic was simple and unpretentious, and the vibe was homey. I distinctly remember pausing for a moment and realizing how peaceful it was, and, emboldened by this sense of calm, trying a complimentary toothpick in the hopes of looking cool and not like I’d just had a serious head injury. After glancing in a mirror briefly, I received a short nod from another customer indicating that yes, I pulled it off. Armed with newfound confidence, I proceeded to the back of the restaurant and paid for my food, chatting briefly with a staff-member about moving to New Haven. They said they hoped to see me again soon.
Rice Pot’s Chicken Pad Thai and Prik King Curry
In this way Chicken Pad Thai and Prik King Curry at Rice Pot Thai became my bi-weekly nighttime micro-odyssey, and one of my few remaining pleasures during my concussion recovery. Sometimes I’d take my food home, and sometimes I’d eat there, but I always felt grateful for the vibes emanating from the place. Within a few weeks, saying my name over the phone was enough to have the staff ready with my takeout order, and I often had to insist on not accepting the free desserts and drinks they tried to send me home with, though sometimes spring rolls were added to my takeout bag without me realizing. It may be true that Rice Pot was the closest restaurant to my house, and that I’d forgotten what non-microwaved food tasted like. But I’m convinced that Rice Pot’s delicious food and small kindnesses convinced my brain to heal itself. I love it there, and I still go all the time.
And I’m not alone. In telling everyone I know I’m writing this article, I’ve been struck by the number of responses sharing stories similar to mine. When asked about Rice Pot, local Thai food connoisseur Anabel DeMartino responded: “They saved me emotionally.” In need of Thai food during a rough weekend involving work-related drama, DeMartino learned about Rice Pot on the New Haven subreddit. They ordered Chicken Pad See-Ew and Eggplant & Asparagus. They loved it, and will never forget the flicker of hope Rice Pot provided in their hour of darkness.
Of course, in expressing one’s love for Rice Pot, September In Bangkok inevitably enters the conversation. I’ve journeyed to September In Bangkok, and I’ve sipped from its ivory chalice. Their Tea-Leaf Salad is particularly ravishing, as are the Drunk Man Noodles. They also make great cocktails. The prices seem daunting at first, but are in the end more or less the same as Rice Pot if you sub the expensive protein options for chicken or tofu. It’s probably a ‘better restaurant’, if this is something that matters to you.
My roommate, Jacob Damon, has lived in East Rock for 5 years, and he’s somehow never been to either one. Asked to compare the two, he snorts dismissively, “I hate to burst your bubble, but everyone says the food at September In Bangkok is better. You want to hate it, apparently, but you can’t because the food is so good.”
On the other hand, experienced food-eater Eliana Stone contends: “They’re so clearly understaffed. When I go, they seem so stressed to see me. I feel bad, because I just want yummy food, and now I have to go through the process of stressing someone out. I don’t like it. You go to Rice Pot and it’s delightful and lovely. You go to September In Bangkok and you feel like an asshole.” Still, she loves the food at September, adding “It’s objectively yummy. Like a little splurge. It’s really not more expensive than the alternatives but it feels like it is.”
When asked to compare the two, DeMartino shared: “Rice Pot is giving more of a classic vibe. September In Bangkok is a little fancier. They gave me a piece of chicken with an umbrella in it, and next to it was a bowl of coconut liquid. It was delicious.” They agreed that September might be the first choice when your parents visit, but admitted, “you don’t go there in a time of need.”
I agree with all of them. The food is annoyingly great at September In Bangkok, but it’s not where I go when I’ve had a rough day (re: last week’s election) and want to feel a sense of community. The people working there seem nice enough, but the place is understaffed and the vibe is stressful. Worst of all, no one ever remembers me there, even when I’m wearing my concussion helmet-hat.
Eavesdropping on conversations at neighboring tables, as one does, it’s clear that September In Bangkok is the preferred choice for Yale-affiliated gatherings. Encased in amber light cast by expensive-looking lamps, it’s easy to imagine a young JD Vance cozying up to his law school peers. Of course, as a non-Yale-affiliated member of the East Rock Community, I subscribe to the notion that Yale is lame. A sentiment formed through the lived experiences of other non-Yalies (and proclaimed performatively by Yale students), the widespread perception of Yale’s lameness is rooted in years of elitism, neglect, and borderline contempt for the wider New Haven community. Granted, the gentrification Yale has enabled in neighborhoods like East Rock is something I benefit from, which makes me a hypocrite. In the end, I recognize that a wonderful community is able to thrive in New Haven, not just in spite of, but because of Yale’s abhorrent vibes.
In the same way, Rice Pot Thai has somehow been able to bloom in the long shadow cast by September In Bangkok. There is further research to be done regarding their food safety and working conditions. However, I can say with confidence that over the course of the two years since I’ve been a regular, Rice Pot’s Pad Thai has gone from mediocre to better than September In Bangkok. It has this delicious rubbery, solid quality to it – I like the way it sits like a brick in my stomach when I mix it with the Prik King Curry. It’s also interesting to note that Rice Pot seems to be the Thai spot of choice for members of the Bradley Street Bike Co-Op, a pillar of the East Rock community located next-door to September In Bangkok.
In the end, this country remains committed to destroying the planet and brutalizing most of its inhabitants. And because of this, Americans get to play video games, listen to interesting music, and partake in cuisine from around the globe. Our choices are fundamentally limited, and the scope of these choices is more limited for some than it is for others. But, at least to some extent, we can choose what video games we play, what music we listen to, and which restaurants we support. I argue that Rice Pot Thai is the people’s choice, and the choice you should make next time you’re hungry and have some cash to spend.
You’ve gotta try it. From the benches at the equally underrated Women’s Park at night, the Rice Pot storefront looks beautiful - glowing in streetlights, moonlight, and memories you haven’t had yet because you haven’t tried their appetizers. Maybe you go inside. Maybe you sip some Thai Iced Tea while sharing a smile with a staff-member. Maybe you don’t, at least not tonight. But Rice Pot will be there for you when you need it most. It’s always been there for me.
You can find Rice Pot at 1027 State St in New Haven, CT.